Queer Style: Jean Paul Gaultier's work on stage and screen in the 1990s

Queer Style is the expression of an identity that does not conform to typical cultural and societal norms of gender through the expression of fashion. A lot of Queer Style has developed from Queer subcultures in clubs and through artforms like drag. This thesis looks at what happens when these forms of dress are applied to high fashion and put on a bigger platform. It explores how the work of French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier brought Queer design codes into the world of high fashion, celebrity, and film and in doing so celebrated the Queer community and brought attention to Queer culture in mainstream media. It takes a specific look at his work in the 1990s when he produced his most famous and influential work. It looks at the work he did on stage specifically with Madonna. He designed the outfits for her 1990 Blonde Ambition tour which is remembered for the famous salmon corset and cone bra as well as its troupe of Queer backup dancers who were also dressed by Gaultier. This thesis also discusses his work in film focusing on Luc Besson's 1997 film The Fifth Element. The costumes for this sci-fi action film were loud and colorful and showed elements of Queer style to a different kind of audience while still making sense within a narrative. It also looks at some of his runway outfits including his famous skirt for men and some fetish inspired styles and how they are viewed as Queer and their impact and connection with his work for stage and screen. Overall, this thesis is an exploration of the positives and the negatives of showcasing Queer identities and aspects of Queer culture to a conventional audience and how that helps the community but can also be alienating as it puts them on display.